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And from the bloody pulpit:
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The last 3 Syrahs are pretty incredible Syrahs... truly world-class wines
that are of the quality (but different) to La Landonne/La Mouline and Grange
and La Chappelle. There was no consensus among my people which was the
best of the three. Many preferred the Ojai but I thought it was so intense
Syrah fruit and exotic that it bordered on the bizarre (but NOT over the
edge). The resemblance between the Ojai & the Qupe was obvious; the
Qupe seemed to have a bit more monkeying around in the cellar with it than
the Ojai. I slightly preferred the EdStJ Durell because it had a bit more
roasted/Rhonish character to it. But choosing atwixt the three was a futile
effort; I rated them all a perfect 10/10. And, of course, my people were
all lamenting the fact they didn't buy more.
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The Qupe Central Coast Syrahs are such beautiful wines and a real steal
in the $10-$14 price range (as is the Ojai Calif). They seem to change
a lot in the first yr after their release & start to show more of their
PasoRobles fruit and more pungency. And they actually age quite well for
5-8-10 yrs in my experience.
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Syrah is supposed to be a warm-climate grape; but it seems to do extra-
ordinaly well in cool climate areas, like BienNacido (Pinot/Chard country)
and the Carneros. I'm continually impressed by the Carneros ones (where
Durell Vnyd is located). The Havens '95 is easily their best one yet; some
found it a bit bretty, but I thought it at a low enough level that it gave
it an interesting/Rhonish (and brett is, of course, why we all like Rhone
wines!!) character.
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The Chapoutier Chante-Alouette is a most lovely fragrant aromatic wine,
one of the best Hermitage Blancs I've had. And at 100% Marsanne, gives
me some hope for that grape in Calif. Most of the ones I've had (Qupe probably
being the best of them) have been a bit on the clunky and Chard wannabe
side. I expect they'll figure it out out there. The Calif Rousannes
have been quite impressive; very fragrant aromatic whites. The Qupe has
been more Viognier-like than his Viognier is to me. A grape w/ a lot of
potential out there.
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It's tastings like these that's exactly the reason I'm bailing out of the
Zin market (I know.... heresy!!) w/ such fervor. To pay for nice Zins in
the $40 price range (we should break the $50/btl barrier in '98 I predict)
when you can get truly world-class Syrah... truly great wines that will
age... is.... well, sorta stupid!! I hope they won't revoke my ZAP member-
ship for this.
A round of the clap to Steve Edmunds, Bob Lindquist, Adam Tolmach for
making such stunning wines. And a special thanks to Gary Eberle for getting
this all started up at Estrella River. He does not get the credit he deserves
for mnaking the first truly good Syrah in Calif. Joseph Phelps was there
first, but it took them some 10 yrs to really figure it out.
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