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And the usual stuff from the bloody pulpit:
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Jaffurs whites: I've followed Craig Jaffur's wines from the very start;
sitting out on the front porch of the LosOlivos W&S Emporium with Larry
Archibald one crisp Saturday morning. Craig brought a barrel sample of
his 19?? Viognier. At that time, I was very into the big/ ripe DollyParton
Viogniers. I recognized this one as quite different, more on the lean/austere
side w/ a wonderful minerality to it. Kind of like Trimbach GWT vs. a Z-H
GWT. It's been interesting to watch the evolution of his Viogniers in style
towards a richer, more lush style; yet still retaining that minerality
and not becoming DollyParton-like. And they're Viogniers that seem to age,
like the Alban Estate, better than most. Wonderful Viogniers. The Roussannes
have been a bit more difficult to get my arms around. The early ones were
pleasant white wines, but just that. This 2001 effort is, to me, by far
Craig's best Roussanne yet; one of the best from Calif I've yet had. It
comes from StolpmanVnyd, so it's true Roussanne. One of the best examples
of varietal Roussanne I can think of.
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Cuilleron Marsanne/Viognier: Amazing wines for the price for an area of
the Rhone that's going to be getting more recognition. Start trying them
now so, you too, can say you've followed those wines from the very start!!
Prices were at Prima in Walnut Creek.
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DollyParton Viognier: The Eberles have always, to me, been classic DP/Viognier,
loaded w/ silicone; beautiful/soft/fat/lush great drinking from the very
start. This '96 was a good example of what DP/Viognier do with age; the
silicone puddles up and things start to sag. Interesting wine, but age
has not been kind to it.
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Calif Roussanne: When Roussanne first started appearing in Calif (BonnyDoon),
I had a hard time trying to get a handle on the Roussanne varietal character.
Part of the problem is that many of those early Roussannes were, in fact,
Viognier (thanks Randal!!). Now that more and more true Roussanne is coming
on-line, I'm still not sure I can recognize Roussanne. But the quality
of some of the recent ones have been mightly impressive; the Jaffurs and
the Garretson two of the best I've had. It's a variety that I think capable
of some stunning wines in Calif. Yet I don't ever see it being, like Viognier,
more than a niche variety; it will never become the next Merlot/WhiteZin/Chard
wave that producers can ride to fame & fortune like many are trying
to do w/ Syrah. Eventually, I think Roussanne may eventually make a better
white wine in Calif than Viognier. It seems to have much of the same perfume
as Viognier; yet is able to handle the oak better than Viognier can, and
capable of producing, like Syrah, a broad range of styles. Some exciting
times ahead for Roussanne.
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Aged Marsanne: The Qupes are some of the best examples around of Calif
Marsanne and what happens to it w/ age. When they're just released, they
can be a bit dumb & simple, appley in character. But w/ some age on
them, they can evolve into very interesting complex/nutty wines; some like
old Aussie Semillons. This is a character I particularly like in Marsanne;
but realize it's not to everyone's taste. If you demand that your white
wines be fresh & fruity, then you'll probably find the slightly ozidized
character of old Marsanne not your cup of tea. They're a bit of an aquired
taste.
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