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And from the bully pulpit:
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A rather eclectic tasting of some pretty interesting-to-killer wines. Used
to be when I'd do a tasting like this, I'd have trouble getting a group.
They just wanted to taste Zinfandel (I can understand that!). Now, when
they find out there'll be Syrahs... no probolem!
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Barbera is another verrry underrated grape in Calif. Gary Eberle has been
making very good ones from the very first days at Estrella Vnyds. The ones
from the Norman vnyd are even better. Some of Jim Clendennan's IlPodere
Barberas have been a bit spotty, sometimes a bit too Italian/unclean/bretty.
These two '95 are easily his best yet. This '95 and last yrs '94 Bien Nacido
Barberas have been some of the best ever from Calif. They have that lush
black cherry fruit of the BN vnyd, w/ that underlying Barbera tannins &
acidity. These are wines to watch. Scott Harvey and Renwood are also two
pretty outstanding Barberas. There's a fair amount of old-vine Barbera
in Calif.... people oughta be doing more with that fruit. And planting
more.
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The Ojais...... sigh!!! Adam Tolmach's wines over the last 2-3 vintages
have all taken a big step up in quality. Run, don't walk..... to find the
Calif '95 and Roll Ranch '95 Syrahs. Alas... he's sold out at the winery.
And the Santa Barbara/Bien Nacido Syrah '95 is even better than these two.
This Viognier is easily his best (of 3 vintages now) yet and one of the
few Calif versions that have that minerally component I love in great Condrieu.
But it should be served at cool room temperature, not at the usual white
wine temperatures. Otherwise you miss out on so much in this wine.
The Roll Ranch Syrah was loaded w/ Syrah fruit but seemed a bit on the
soft & understructured side, though ample tannins. It's a young vnyd
but one that's worth keeping your eye on. I think Adam pretty much has
the entire vnyd locked up for his wines, at least I hope so. Adam's othe
wines are also pretty special... even his Chard... if you like that kind
of wine! He has a Benjamin Lorenzo (his son born in '95) Pinot '95 from
Bien Nacido that's a blockbuster; atypical of Pinot and more like Syrah...
killer stuff. Please, not a word to Parker about this curly-haired
wild-eyed guy back up in the canyon in lower SB Cnty!!! Let's keep him
to ourselves!
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The Hamel Syrah was a weird one. Very intense fruit but a bit hot &
fumey & a bit rustic in style. Problematic for long-term aging. But
I liked it a whole lot. Better than anything Kevin has made under the Preston
label, where he is (or was?) winemaker. It reminded me a bit of some of
the old- style Ridges.
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And the Eberle wines continue to get better. Most of the Syrah plantings
in Calif I understand come from his original Estrella River plantings.
I tasted Gary's first Syrahs there at Estrella with him way back when &
it was the first time that I saw some real potential for the variety in
Calif. They were a bit overdone on the pencilly French oak, but they had
that fragrant, perfumey, high-toned character his Syrahs always seem to
have; rather than that brooding powerful blockbuster character that many
of the others have (which I like too). This was back when the first Joseph
Phelps Syrahs were pretty miserable wines; it took them about 10 yrs for
them to figure Syrah out. Ken Volk's Wild Horse Syrahs also seem to have
that fragrant high-toned character to them.
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