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The Tom Hill Archives

The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium presents the musings and reflections of Tom Hill. We think it's great that Tom, who has sampled so many wines, has shared his tasting notes with us. We do have, or have had for sale a few of the wines Tom writes about, and we include a link to our stock page whenever it is a producer we carry (but since the stock page is kept up-to-date and the wines are sold, don't expect any but the newest of wines to show up in our stock!). Mostly though, since we specialize in County of Santa Barbara Wine and Central Coast Wine, we don't carry a lot of the wines Tom writes about. But we think it is important that you be able to have an idea what they're like in case you are planning to buy some somewhere, or have them in your own collection. Enjoy.

Here are Tom's notes from August 21, 2002:

Some New Whites & Reds

We tasted last week some new whites & reds:
 
  1. Alexis Bailly Vineyard Minnesota SeyvalBlanc (11.5%) 2000: Pale yellow color; bit earthy slight metallic/plastic stoney/floral/perfumed talc rather spicy nose; very tart/lean/crisp light grapefruity/floral/lemony some stoney/earthy flavor; med. tart/lean/crisp light floral/ grapefruity/lemony some stoney/metallic/earthy finish; gift of JimVerlautz.
  2. Tyrell'sWines Vat 1 Hunter Semillon (10.6%) 1996: Med.dark gold color; strong waxy/figgy/ Semillon light pungent/Fr.oak some complex bit low-key/supressed nose; very high acid/teeth- chattering-tart light figgy/grapefruity/waxy slight pungent/oak flavor; med.short very tart/ acid grapefruity/figgy/waxy/Semillon finish; badly needs much age; unimpressive wine NOW for $40.00.
  3. Calif Shenandoah Vineyards Amador County SB (13.1%) 1982: Med.dark gold color; rather toasty/pungent/ smokey slight herbal slight old Sauternes perfumed/complex nose; tart/sour some bitter toasty/ pungent/smokey/oaked bit caramel/butterscotch slight herbal/figgy flavor; med.long toasty/ smokey/pungent/oak/tobaccoy slight herbal finish; obviously an old wine but still alive and quite interesting.
  4. Babcock Vineyards 11 Oaks Ranch SantaYnez Valley SB (13%) 1990: Dark gold color; bit coconutty/ macaroon rather Kansas hay mow/Kansas feed store/herbal/OldSpiceAfterShave/fragrant some toasty/ oaked/butterscotchy perfumed/complex nose; soft/rich bit overripe toasty/oak Kansas hay mow/ herbal complex flavor; long fragrant toasty/oaked/caramel/toasted coconut some herbal/Kansas hay mow finish; still very much alive and rather interesting.
  5. J.J.McHale ClearLake Dorn Vineyard Fume Blanc (13.0%) 2000: Med.gold color; slight reduced/pungent  rather smokey/peppery/pungent/SB light oaked nose; tart fairly rich pungent/smokey/fume some  figgy/gravelly/stoney interesting spicy/peppery flavor; med.long smokey/pungent/peppery some ripe/figgy finish; easily the best ClearLake SB I've yet had; one of the few SBs that deserve the fume name; quite likable white at a very good price. $16.00
  6. J.J. McHale Mendocino Chard Lolonis Vineyard (14.5%) 2000: Med.gold color; some butterscotchy/smokey ripe/melony/Chard peppery/smokey/light oak attractive nose; soft/ripe some pungent/smokey ripe/melony/Chard slight Mendocino/earthy flavor; med.long smokey/peppery/pungent/oak ripe melony/spicy/Chard finish; attractive interesting Mendocino Chard w/ good balance of oak.
  7. Carabella Willamette Valley OR PinotGris (14.6%) 2000: Med.gold color; lovely/lush/fragrant anise/piney/floral/very pear/apple ripe/aromatic fairly Alsatian-like nose; off-dry rich/ripe/ citrusy/piney/PineSol very spicy/pear/apple/cheap Christmas candy lovely flavor; long very ripe/citrusy/piney/floral spicy/PG/pear/apple lush finish; one of the best Oregon PGs I've yet had and rather Alsatian in style.
  8. Pierre Sparr Alsace Riesling (12%) 2000: Med.gold color; med. strong pineapply/cheap R simple nose; soft/flabby rather simple flowery/pineapply/R dull flavor; med.short soft/fat light floral/pineapply finish; dullsville cheap Riesling more like Liebfraumilch.
  9. Pierre Sparr Alsace GWT (13%) 2000: Med.dark gold color; very intense lychee/hair-oil/GWT/ Vitalis simple nose; soft/fat intense hair-oil/Vitalis/lychee/GWT flavor; med.long soft/fat lychee/hair-oil finish; soft & lacking structure but loads of GWT fruit; bit simple.
  10. Domaine Weinbach Muscat Reserve (13%) 2000: Med.dark color; strong muscatty slight musty/corked bit spicy rather fragrant nose; soft/rich very spicy/muscatty slight bitter loads of fruit flavor; long strong muscatty/spicy lush/tart slight musty/corked finish; slightly corked but the intense Muscat overwhelms it.
  11. J.J.McHale Mendocino Pinot Noir (14.5%) 2000: Med.light color; rather toasty/buttery/Fr.oaked/ buttered popcorn bit meaty/gamey stewed tomatoes/cherry/black cherry nose; tart bright cherry/ black cherry/Pinot some smokey/pungent bit toasty/oaked/Burgundian flavor; med.long tart chery/black cherry light toasty/Fr.oak/smokey/pungent slight earthy finish w/ light tannins; good Anderson Valley bright cherry character w/ nice touch og oak; well-made.
  12. Alexis Bailly Vineyard Minnesota MarechalFoch (11.5%) 1999: Med.light color; very earthy/funky  rather pickle juice/volatile stewed fruit bit plastic/hybridy nose; hot/fumey/volatile buttery/diacetyl light earthy/plastic little fruit flavor; med.long hot/fumey/volatile finish w/ little tannins; a raging volatility to this wine and precious little fruit. Compliments of JimVerlautz.
  13. Martella Hammer Calif Syrah (14.6%; 71% Syrah from WattsFamily Vineyard/Clements, 7% Syrah from Ventana Vineyard/Monterey, 10% Napa Valley CabFranc; 950cs) 2000: Med.dark color; strong plummy/blackberry bit earthy very ripe attractive nose; soft/fat lush/plummy/blackberry/Syrah slight earthy/mushroomy slight herbal flavor; med. soft lush/plummy/ripe/blackberry/Syrah slight herbal/earthy finish w/ light tannins; a lush/drinkable/attractive Syrah more like ContraCosta Zin than Lodi Syrah; fairly priced at $23.50.
  14. Martella Vineyards Fiddletown Zin (10% CabFranc, 4% Syrah; 14.6%; 300 cs) 1999: Med.dark color;  lovely black cherry/cola/licorice very spicy/fragrant Zin bit tobaccoy/pungent nose; tart very ripe black cherry/blackberry/Zin/cola light pungent/tobaccoy/oak flavor; med.long cherry/black cherry/blackberry/cola/Zin light pungent finish w/ some tannins; needs several yrs of age; much like an Eschen Zin w/o the hard tannins; very nice Zin for $23.50.
  15. Calif Shenandoah Vineyards Amador County Zin Late Harvest (15.4%; 70 yr old Lubenko Vineyard/ Fiddletown; SaH: 46%; RS: 16%) 1981: Very dark color; very intense blackberry/black cherry/ boysenberry/black cherry cola/licorice pungent/toasty/oak some raisened/alcoholic complex very Priorat/Grenache-like nose; sweet strong Am.oaked/pungent/smokey incredible/intense blackberry/framboise/black cherry/cola very grapey flavor; very long very sweet bit alcoholic very intense framboise/blackberry/cola finish w/ some tannins; a terrific Late Harvest that's still loaded w/ blackberry/framboise fruit.
  16. Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985: Med.color; bit musty/bretty slight volatile bit tobbacoy/ old Zin complex nose; soft tobaccoy/pungent/cedary slight bretty cigar box/old Zin flavor; long tobaccoy/pungent/cigar box finish w/ light tannins; lots of cedary/old Zin character; fully mature or a bit beyond. James' mystery wine.
  17. Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1992: Med.dark color; strong fruity/ blackcurranty/ strawberry/ bit jammy dusty some vanilla/ Am.oaked nose; soft/round some cigar box/cedary bit herbal very ripe blackcurranty flavor; very long ripe/blackcurranty/strawberry/loads of fruit some cedary/ cigar box finish w/ light tannins; fully ready to drink; lots of ripe fruit. Andrew's mystery wine.
And the usual ramblings from the bloody pulpit:
  1. AlexisBailly: These were a gift to us from JimVerlautz when he visited SantaFe from St.Paul about a month ago. I had one of the AlexisBailly reds way back when and thought it was pretty decent hybrid wine. The Seyval (a Villard & Seibel crossing) was fairly attractive in the nose and had a verey tart/lean palate; but a likable wine a bit like a Southern Rhone on acids. The Marechal Foch had a raging volatility to it that pretty much obliterated any other character in the wine. One of the character I often find in wines from hybrid varieties is a plastic-like component, a plasticizer from newly formed plastics. Go to any HomeDepot, take the lid off of a new plastic trash can and stick your head inside; that's the smell I'm talking about. But it is usually, for me, the identifier of a hybrid wine. In this Seyval, I only found a hint of that component.
  2. ShenandoahSauvignonBlanc: I've followed LeeSobon's SBs from the very start, the '8That wine was a stunny wine in it's youth; loaded w/ an intense Semillon-like fruit and a strong charred/toasty/oak component; and lived a long life afore expiring. This '82 version was a much lighter wine in its youth and much less impressive. I was expecting this wine to be DOA. In fact, it was still very much alive and not at all unpleasant. It even had a bit of the character I've found in old HautBrion Blancs. Pretty interesting wine.
  3. TyrellSemillon: This wine I got from Darrell Corti on his recommendation. It is a pretty  underwhelming wine right now. It took some Best of Show in 2001 in Sydney I believe. It has a very schreechy acidity to it that feels like it's scouring your teeth. It is, however, a wine that promises a lot down the road w/ age, if my experience with Oz Semillons means anything. This is a wine that needs at least 10 yrs and will probably last for 40-50 yrs, and evolve into a stunning wine I suspect/guarantee.  What's interesting is that I found a distinct pungent/oaked character in both the nose and the taste. Yet the wine is totally unoaked. I'm just as clueless as certain famous Monktown attourneys, I guess. I've found this, particularly, in older Oz Semillons, a distinct oaky character, when they had never seen a splinter of oak in their life. Go figure.
  4. J.J.McHale wines: These wines were given to us to try by Dave Crippen, winemaker. The Chard and Pinot, made from Mendocino grapes, were very attractive/well-made wines; better than most of the Mendocino wines I try. But I was most taken by his ClearLake SB. Most of the ClearLake SBs I've tried have been rather boring/simple little wines. This one had much more character than any I've had and a lovely peppery/smokey quality to it. The winery is located in Clear Lake/Lake County. He has a Syrah coming upon a Sept release that I'm particularly looking forward to trying. Don't think I've yet had a Syrah from Lake County, so interested in what that area can produce.
  5. Carabella PinotGris: We had their Pinot last week and was not impressed at the $36 price point. OTOH, this PinotGris is a terrific PG and well-priced to boot. Most OR PG tend to be a bit on the hard/lean/austere side for me. This one had the richness and lushness that I olnly find in Alsatian versions. Much better than any Calif ones I've had, thus far.
TomHill

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