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Some off-the-wall opinionated rantings in my curmudgeonly
mode:
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The Clines were very impressive. I've been following the Cline wines from
the very start and was prepared to dislike these '95's because of the prices.
Couldn't do it; they are good. They display a lot of the very interesting
plummy/dusty character of ContraCosta; it come thru load & clear. The
early Cline Zins I did not care much for; I found them coarse & rustic
& very soft underacid mushy flabby on the palate, The last 3 Cline
vintages have shown nothing but continual improvement, more & more
competent winemaking. These '95's are their best yet. They have a $38 bottling
(Jacuzzi or some such) coming out that, at ZAP, I didn't think was as good
as these, but try it when it's released, if you can bear the $$$$'s.
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The Eberle Zin was easily Gary's best yet. His '89 was a real fruit bomb,
but didn't quite deliver in the mouth (actually, it still is tasting very
good & not about to fall apart). The intervening ones had plenty of
fruit overlain w/ that Eberle cinammon/cloves oak. This one has enormous
fruit & toned down a bit on the oak, great structure for aging; a dynamite
wine. Many of the PasoRobles Zins from the west side (which is where Sauret
is located) often have an overripe blackberry jammy quality to them w/
a sorta soft underbelly. Gary's always seem to have loads of fruit but
w/o that overripe character & retain lots of structure. This '95 says
14.8% alc... take that w/ a grain of salt!
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The Rosenblums.... the ContraCosta and PasoRobles were always a big step
above his Vintner's Cuvee. That big step seems to be shrinking a bit. These
'95's are very forward & drinkable, good restaurant wines, but just
that. The Sonoma Old Vines has often been, in the past, pretty serious
stuff, nearly as good as the single vnyd stuff. This '95 seems more for
the restaurant folks.
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Liked the Steele Zins quite a bit. The previous ones seemed to me a bit
overdone on the toasty French oak, more like his Pinots than real Zins.
These '95's are much better in that regard, the Zin fruit really comes
out; wonderfully aromatic perfumy noses; but a bit lean on the palate;
but his best Zins yet. But still nowhere near the marvelous wines he once
made up at Edmeades.... when real men drank Zin & whimps RedBurgundy!!
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I have serious doubts for the future of the Zin market in Calif. Back in
the good old days, we Zinfanatics used to smirk & snicker as all the
lemming-types were spending $20-$40/btl for their prestige Cabernets and
we were quietly drinking our great Zins at 1/2 to 1/4th the price. That
self-satisfied attitude that we "knew" more than all the rest of the wine
consuming public led to a small but very passionate band of Zin nuts. And
there was a handful of winemakers that also loved Zin & courted that
market, people like Paul Draper, Barney Fetzer, David Bruce, Joe Swan,
etc. Alas, those days seem gone. As the '95's come out, we're seeing some
real sticker shock. Zinfandel has been annoited but all the wine publications
as the latest "hot" varietal from Calif. Producers are getting into the
market because Zin is "hot". So now most great Zins are in the $20-$30/btl
range, going up to $50/btl. You can get some awfully good Cabs and Pinots
for less than those prices. Wines that will probably last a whole lot longer
than the Zins. Despite as good as the '95's Zins coming out are,
I find fewer & fewer that I want to buy. Instead, I'm snarfing up more
& more Syrahs and Rhone- style blends. The Qupe BienNacido Reseve at
less than $20/btls is a steal, and great wine to boot, and will age quite
awhile. The Ojais are equally good. Just don't make sense... why do things
gotta change!!
TomHill.... signing off in a cranky mood
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