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The Bernard Roth Archives

The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium presents notes of Bernard Roth who always has something to say, particularly about wine and food.

We are happy that Bernard, who has sampled so many wines, has shared his notes with us. We do have, or have had for sale a few of the wines Bernard writes about, and we include a link to our stock page whenever it is a producer we carry (but since the stock page is kept up-to-date and the wines are sold, don't expect any but the newest of wines to show up in our stock!). Mostly though, since we specialize in County of Santa Barbara Wine and Central Coast Wine, we don't carry a lot of the wines Bernard writes about. But we think it is important that you be able to have an idea what they're like in case you are planning to buy some somewhere, or have them in your own collection. Enjoy.

Here are Bernard's notes from October 15, 2000:

Various Wines 

95 Dominique Laurent Morey-St. Denis 1er Cru Cuvee Tradition-Light, maturing color.  Initially tight. Opens up over next 30-45 minutes. Perfumy nose showing anise, orange,  roses and slight VA. High acid, terroir-driven wine. Flavors of sour cherry, orange juice,  Juicy Fruit gum, camphor. Fading fruit. Long finish dominated by tart acids and high  pitch tannins. Seems correct, but rather austere. Drink up. With food, 88 points; 83  without.  

55 Vallana Spanna del Piemonte VdT-Enjoyed on my 45th birthday. Medium- light, maroon/red color. Forward bouquet showing classic nebbiolo elements of  dried cherry, violets, tar, and hints of damp fur. Exquisite in the mouth, the fruit  so young and vibrant, the acidity having a precise, focused cut that carries from  attack through finish. The still fresh fruit and fine, resolved tannins wind around  each other in a velvety weave. Some secondary and tertiary aged character  (cedar, leather) is present, but primary red fruit and preserved flowers carry the  center of the palate. A well-stored bottle can last another couple decades. A  very impressive bottle which could shame many a younger Barolo. 93. 

94 Beaucastel CDP Blanc-Bouquet of honeysuckle, candle wax, white stone  fruit, grapefruit zest, and macadamia nuts. Nutty flavor, with flinty backbone,  lemon, camphor, and pear. Somewhat oily texture with medium finish.  Somewhat softer and more elegant than expected. 90 points. Drink over next 2  years. 

96 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay-Fruity, crystalline bouquet. Classic  Talbott style, emphasizing fruit with minimal oak intrusion. Lovely, focused  flavors. Citrus zest, nectarine, Meyer lemon, passion fruit, stony minerals. Crisp  acidity and long, balanced finish. 92. Drink over next 3 years. 

91 Lane Tanner Sanford and Benedict Pinot Noir Signature Series-Medium- light Burgundy color. Expansive bouquet showing spicy dried raspberry, sachet  floral, and some earthy elements. Mature, classic PN. Harmony and elegance,  with restrained power. Black fruit, dark cherry, some S&B mineral-earth  character, and finely resolved tannins. Excellent finish, clean and in proper  balance. Perhaps Lane's finest effort, nay perfection in a CA PN. 94. Drink over  next 2-3 years. 

94 Turriga (Sardinia)-Slightly aging color. Modest bouquet. Soft, plush mature  Grenache (aka cannonau) fruit flavors, showing some red plum and  boysenberry, with a creamy texture. Fully resolved soft tannins, moderate  acidity, and round in the mouth. Somewhat short finish. Lacks the herbal and  animal qualities of its Rhone brethren. 88. Drink up. 

97 Oakville Ranch Cabernet-Dark color. Lots of oak, both up front and in the  finish. Decently concentrated black cherry fruit and cola. Broad tannic profile  with proper balancing acidity. Too much raw oak for me, at this stage, but  others liked it. If the oak integrates, this should drink nicely in 3-5 years. There  are lots of $40 Napa cabs, and this leaves me without a sense of  distinctiveness. 89(+?). 

85 Laurel Glen Cabernet-Medium dark color showing some maturation and  sedimentation. Truly gorgeous bouquet, with aged red fruit, floral perfumed and  secondary characteristics. This is what maturing CA cab is all about. Opulent in  the mouth. Layer after layer of flavors, red and dark fruits, licorice, a complete  and complex amalgam of middle-aged, maturing cab flavors. Long and  perfectly balanced finish, with sustaining fine tannins and supportive acidity.  Impressive showing. Thanks to Tom Garcia for bringing the bottle. Another 6- 10 years of life ahead. 95. 

94 Swanson-Dark violet color. Huge nose of black fruits and spice. Very  intense attack, substantial tannins, and impressive density comparable to a top  Aussie shiraz. Layers of black fruits, ferric minerality, India ink, blueberry, and  suave oak seemingly buried by the dense fruit. Good viscousity. Extremely  long. This is first rate, terrific CA syrah. Everything is in order for a long life.  Don't open for another 3-6 years, and should last at least another 10 years.  95(+?). 


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