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The Bernard Roth Archives

The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium presents notes of Bernard Roth who always has something to say, particularly about wine and food.

We are happy that Bernard, who has sampled so many wines, has shared his notes with us. We do have, or have had for sale a few of the wines Bernard writes about, and we include a link to our stock page whenever it is a producer we carry (but since the stock page is kept up-to-date and the wines are sold, don't expect any but the newest of wines to show up in our stock!). Mostly though, since we specialize in County of Santa Barbara Wine and Central Coast Wine, we don't carry a lot of the wines Bernard writes about. But we think it is important that you be able to have an idea what they're like in case you are planning to buy some somewhere, or have them in your own collection. Enjoy.

Here are Bernard's notes from May 3, 2003:

Various Wines 

Yep, Tom Hill, Larry and Laura, and Howard and Rhoda stopped overnight in SB on their way to Hospice du Rhone. After an "off the beaten path wine tasting" at my house yesterday afternoon (to be written up), we headed over to Downey's for dinner. Downey's is, to my knowledge, the only SB restaurant with a DiRoNa award. The food was better than I remember if from past occasions, perhaps because John was in the kitchen instead of home tending to his young offspring.Theme was venerable wines. Here they are:

76 Vina Tondonia Rioja Blanca--Slightly oxidative nose, flat palate without much fruit. Kind of off-putting until the wine warmed in the glass, and only then was it drinkable. I do not know if this is an unusual example of this wine, but it would have been better with tapas. Fair at best.

95 Z-H Riesling Clos ST. Urbain (Rangen)--Delightful, dry, minerally, and on the young side. Needs 6-8 years and will last another 20. Exceptional.82 Grange--Started with weird medicinal bouquet. It took an hour for it to blow off and the wine came around by the entree course to be my WOTN. Best match to the venison. Outstanding.

90 Pichon Baron--Young and chunky. Big fruit, unresolved tannins. Needs 10 years. Very good + in time.82 Haut Brion--Began as the best red, but did not evolve. Smooth, refined, but needs more secondary development. Give it 10-15 years. Excellent +.82

Pichon-Lalande--Bigger than the HB. Classic P-L flavor profile. More fruit and tannin than HB and overtook it toward the middle of the meal before the Grange went ahead. Outstanding.73 MonteBello Cab-- Tom Hill though the theme was vulnerable "wines", so he took a specimen from his own cellar. Still alive, soft fruit, very drinkable, but short lived once exposed to air. Very Good for what it is still.The dessert wines strayed from the theme.

99 Cuilleron Botrytised Condrieu Aygets--A step down from previous vintages of this wine. Lacking a bit of the R.S. and bracing acidity that I prefer. Very good +.01 Jaffurs LH Viognier--Pretty poor example. Too alcoholic, not enough sugar, and chemically acidified. Tom Hill posted favorably on this, likening it to a passito style wine. It is unbalanced and harsh. Poor.Food note: Downey's is featuring fresh mulberries during the short season. 2 varieties grown in Ojai are available now, with the Persian (best) variety due in soon. Mulberry fans in SoCal should be on the lookout for mulberries at Farmer Markets and fine restaurants for the next few weeks. I've seen the berries at the SB market for the past 2-3 weeks.
 
 


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