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85 Dom--I was not terribly excited by the choice
since I was not that impressed with the wine when I had it about
6 years ago. This time was different. The Dom has gained significant
complexity with age. The fruit is striking--almost sweet. Many Champagnes
have a chalky-dry mouthfeel; the Dom is more sweet and creamy. I
didn't attach a numerical score to my notes, but it's probably about
a 93.
93 Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre--I had low expectations,
even from Lafon, from the 93 vintage. Minerals, honey, lemon zest,
nuts, and butterscotch, but bone dry. Stony. Very subtle, almost
too austere. Lacks a bit of acidity to carry through the finish,
but then this wine lacks concentration and viscousity, too. For fans
of big Chardonnays this would rate about an 84. For White Burgundy
lovers, perhaps a 90. This wine went really well with the smoked
salmon blini, not so well with the foie gras.
92 Z-H Clos Windsbuhl GW--Very open nose of roses, lychees. Complex
palate of orange, nuts, slight sweetness. Great paired with foie gras.
This is one of Z-H's examples of GW under control, so it marries well
to food. Other vintages and vineyards from Z-H show GW over the top
and exaggerated, impressive and oppressive at the same time. 92 pts.
91(?) Ponsot Clos de la Roche--I had expected the 90 vintage
and did not look at the label to confirm the vintage. No matter.
This is the wine I most differ from Bruce on, and I'm going to assert
that I am more the Burgundy lover, so I loved this wine. Great nose
of earth, black fruit, cherry. A bit bretty in the proper Burgundian
way. Real sweet fruit, very spicy, fine tannins on finish. Layered
minerality (the terroir thing). Peppery. Very concentrated fruit.
A bit of hot red pepper on finish. This is very classy Burgundy,
Grand Vin. 96. (Incidently, Parker rated the 91 vintage of this wine
95 points.)
94 Janus--Yeah, Amphissa got the whole dang long name correct,
but anyone who wants to find this wine can simply ask for 94 Janus.
If your merchant doesn't know what you're talking about, then they
can't get the wine. Limited availability, but if you seek, ye shall
find. Complex nose of earth, minerals, blackberry, some oak. Very
lush fruit. Very fine tannins on finish, and a bit tart at the moment.
93+ I expect this wine to round out in 6-8 years. Definite world
class wine, built for aging. I expect it to be a 95-96 pointer in
a decade.
95 L'Ermita (Alvaro Palacios)--Ocean brine nose gives way to
corkiness. What a shame. Lovely sweet fruit, smooth mouthfeel. Coulda
been somebody. Oh, well. Maybe someone will be nice enough to bring
another bottle to another tasting some time so we might get this
one figured out.
81 Grange--My second time with this. First time in a double blind
syrah tasting, I had this in the middle of the pack in not so distinguished
company. This time: Black cherry and menthol. Leather, iron, earth,
violets. Finishes with camphor, eucalyptus. 94+ Still evolving.
95 Bryant Family--Beautiful nose. Cassis carried by volatile
alcohol. Very sweet oak, vanilla, cloves. Buttered popcorn, dill/celery.
94+
94 Harlan--My first time with this wine. What's all the fuss
about? Well...Initially muted nose. Very delish fruit. Menthol, woody.
Long finish. A bit clumbsy. With time in the glass, it keeps getting
better. My score goes from 93+, 94+, 95, 96, over about 45 minutes.
So if you are lucky to have a few bottles (I'm not) and want to drink
it instead of putting it to auction (almost unheard of, but possible),
then consider decanting this wine. It will benefit from the O2 exposure.
Now for the sake of comparison, since all the wine mensches are weighing
in with how great is 94 Harlan, I've put it in the upper echelon
of 94 Cabs, a notch below Araujo and Maya, a notch above Insignia.
Why? More concentration than the Phelps, less refined structure than
the Araujo and Maya. It might drink better than either right now,
but I don't think it will in a decade when the Araujo hits stride.
And I also think the oak in the Harlan makes too much a statement
in the flavor profile. Could change, but for now that's how I call
it. Enough splitting hairs. 96 pts is great in anybody's system!
89 von Kesselstatt Riesling Josephshofer BA (Saar)--Nose of botrytis
up the wazoo. Fine peach fruit, but loses in mid-palate. Flabby, low
acid. Real disappointment, seeing how I plunked down big dough for a
rather mediocre wine. I owe the gang a better performing wine next go
round. A thin 88.
63 Fonseca--Mind boggling sex wafting from the glass. Very extraordinary
complexity, concentration. No words will do justice. 99+ Will last another
40 years. Very youthful tasting fruit, very high tannin levels, and
its already thrown a heap of sediment. My wine of the night! Maybe
even wine of the year so far.
I thank Todd Serota, Bruce L., Nina and Gina for making this all happen.
It was great to meet some new folks: Astorman, Toby, Jan, Svetlana, Raina.
And I enjoyed reconnecting with those I'd already met before: Lissette,
Mark, John (thanks for buying the mag of Dom), Hal and Susan. And
thank all for bringing and sharing such wonderful wines. |
