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The Bernard Roth Archives

The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium presents notes of Bernard Roth who always has something to say, particularly about wine and food.

We are happy that Bernard, who has sampled so many wines, has shared his notes with us. We do have, or have had for sale a few of the wines Bernard writes about, and we include a link to our stock page whenever it is a producer we carry (but since the stock page is kept up-to-date and the wines are sold, don't expect any but the newest of wines to show up in our stock!). Mostly though, since we specialize in County of Santa Barbara Wine and Central Coast Wine, we don't carry a lot of the wines Bernard writes about. But we think it is important that you be able to have an idea what they're like in case you are planning to buy some somewhere, or have them in your own collection. Enjoy.

Here are Bernard's notes from December 1, 2001:

Various Wines

Catching up on some wines tried during 2001:
 
97 Qupé Roussanne Alban Vineyard—Turning light honeyed color. Bouquet shows moderate amounts of botrytis, some honeyed and hay aromas. Lots of flavor in the mouth without being cloyingly fruity. Good acid, broad mineral core, and dry golden fruit flavors. Pretty long, stony, mineral inflected finish with some tastefully bitter qualities. Best showing so far with years to go. Botrytis is not quite as domineering as upon release. 91 (+?).

98 Galleron Stags Leap Cabernet—Pretty, dark garnet color. Lovely bouquet of dark fruit, cassis, black raspberry, cocoa and vanilla. Initial succulent and caressing mouthfeel. Black cherry, dark chocolate, vanilla, cherry cola, and Chambord. Smooth, nice package, showpiece winemaking. Quite lush despite the slightly astringent tannins that peak from under all the opulence. Definitely on the dark end of the cab spectrum, with some layered complexity in the mid-palate. Not a long keeper. Drink over next 3-5 years. 92.

95 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (not Riserva)—Having enjoyed the ready-to-drink 97 recently, I was a little surprised to see a bottle of this still around the cellar. I knew it was time to drink up. Not especially aromatic, with some simple red cherry and wood. Not much complexity. In the mouth, pretty straightforward smooth sangiovese fruit, medium high acidity with good red cherry and pomegranate flavors. Tannins are completely resolved with little bite left. I’d say this is even a year or more past prime. 87- Drink soon.

97 Ridge York Creek Zin—Dark color. Smelled off, maybe some brett, maybe slightly corked, but I could not pin it down. Definitely weird. Rather clunky, concentrated dark fruit flavors, with ferrous minerality, earth, sizable tannins, and an off-putting weirdness. Funky and skunky. Tried again the next night. Weirdness did not blow off. Some bottles you drain, and some you pour down the drain. Bye-Bye Ridgey! 75.

1827 Quinta do Serrado Boal Madeira. 94 points and holding.

75 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese, Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnaßium, Silver Prize (9%)—Remarkable for its condition. Light straw/gold. Fresh perfumed bouquet of crisp pears, white stone fruit blossoms, riverstone, paraffin. Amazingly fresh, well-preserved fruit. No botrytis. Crisp sweet apple, under ripe pear, Thompson grapes! Medium dry. Could use more complexity. Very delicate. A summer wine. Moderate acid (but drinks soft). Clean, crisp, refreshing finish, but lacks mid-palate intensity to hold. Drink up. 88-

94 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl VT—Honey gold. Spicy, botrytised nose with ginger, paraffin, candied orange peel, minerals, mandarin. Medium sweet, zingy (but not high-strung) acidity, very concentrated, layered complex mid-palate, and very long, chewy finish. Apple juice concentrate, flower nectar, roasted pineapple, crème brulée, Seville orange marmalade, grapefruit zest. Unctuous mouth feel, good viscosity. Very long. Will live 15+ years. 96+. Later in the week: Absolute perfection with Chinese food! And then at Laura’s it was a wonderful match to a duck liver and sausage terrine.

95 Sine Qua Non “the other hand” Syrah (and ?)—Medium dark red violet. Brilliant aromatics. Initial Rhonish funk, gamy, horse blanket, barnyard… Gives way to menthol, camphor, cranberry, boysenberry. Rich, concentrated cranberry, sour cherry, boysenberry fruit. Well-integrated toasty oak, high acid, smooth attack. Creamy mid-palate, some vanilla, cocoa. Fruit drops off in finish with fine but astringent tannins. Not clear it will improve with further age. Could hold 2-4 years, but may be worth longer holding as an experiment. 93(-?).

97 Ojai Henry Daniel Syrah—Very dark red-violet. Primary bouquet, some menthol. Dusty tannins, inky minerals. Black fruit, good acid. Liqueur-like mid-palate intensity. Fairly tannic, deep, rich, very concentrated, but simple syrah flavors at this time. Great length, tannic. Needs 5-8 years to develop complexity and soften. 90+.

Chambers Rare Tokay Liqueur. 99 points.

92 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos St. Urbain Rangen Grand Cru (375 ml)—Straw color. Stony, mineral, slightly smoky, hay bouquet. Very dry by Z-H standards. Delicate power. Charred oak. Perfect cut and acid, good balance. Nutty, dry pear flavors. Minerals, chalk. A bit of hollowness in mid-palate. Long finish with bitter almond. Drink over next 2-3 years. 93

90 Faiveley Clos des Cortons Grand Cru—Medium garnet. Forward nose of dried cherry, roses, some barnyardy notes. Dry, fairly tannic with faded cherry fruit. Bit OTH, drying finish. Chewy tannins in finish. Soft. 84 points. Drink up before it completely fades.

92 Beringer Bancroft Ranch Reserve Merlot Howell Mountain—Medium dark red violet. Expansive nose of dark cherry, cassis, cherry liqueur, cola, chocolate. Lush, rich, deep plum, sweet dried cranberry. Chewy tannins, long finish with some bitter tannins. Slight vegetal character. Still needs time. Not as supple a merlot as made by Pahlmeyer. Try again in 3-5 years. 93+

95 La Conseillante Pomerol—Medium dark garnet. Wonderful nose of perfume, violets, tar. High toned. Red cherry, pomegranate, somewhat raw oak needs resolving. Oak tannins and a dry, talcky finish. Will the fruit last? 88(+?)

97 Chateau Roumieu-Lacoste Barsac—Botrytis. Medium viscosity, good balance, proper bitter finish. Could have more fruit intensity (apricot, say). Butterscotch finish. 88

97 Niepoort Porto—Medium dark. Sweet fruit, lush, delicious and quite drinkable for young port. Tannins are rather unsevere. Some medicinal, band-aid qualities. Classic port fruit flavors. 94

1990 Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Genevrières--The wine is dark red-violet and the moment it was poured, I could smell it from 2 feet away. Despite its ostensible village demarcation, this is grand vin. It attacks the palate on two levels. The acid gives it great cut, presenting itself amidst griotte-cherry liqueur fruit. On another level, the fine edgy tannins reverberate within a slightly medicinal, creosote-laden envelope. These two vinous trajectories merge in mid-palate, at which point they titillate the palate in a high frequency sinusoidal dance. Multiple layers of red fruit, earth and dark minerals vie for attention, leading to a long, sharply honed finish. The tannins, though somewhat firm, are well-enough ingrained in the fruit to yield a long, intricate, balanced finish. Still a few (6-8?) years from peak, the fruit is still mostly primary. The multiple layers are not yet smoothly woven. But all the ingredients are present for a splendid evolution. 93 points now, with potential for 95.

96 Kracher “Nouvelle Vague” TBA #4 (Chardonnay/Welschriesling)--Honey gold nectar offered a huge bouquet of mixed stone fruits, mandarine, marmalade, honey, tropical fruits and crème brulée. The flavors are exactly what the aromas promise, an incredibly complex panoply of golden fruits, caramelized tangerine skin, bitter orange marmalade, crème brulée. I only wish the acidity was a little sharper. Still, the finish went on and on with a bitter grapefruit zest edge that lingered for over a minute. The waiters were gaga when tasted on the wine.

96 Marimar Torres Pinot Noir Don Miguel Vineyard (Sonoma)—Decent enough, but losing its edge from its showing on release. Black fruit, a little muddled and without the acidic brace to evolve. Drink up. 88-

92 Chapoutier Chante-Alouette (Hermitage)—Color of dark ginger ale. Aroma of aged Marsanne, delicate, feminine floral character yielding to high-toned lemon oil, hair crème, late harvest dessert-like fruit. Oily texture, lemony, creamy attack. Layered mid-palate, integrated oak, good acid. Lots of minerals, butterscotch, roasted cashews (not hazelnut, not macadamia), bitter orange marmalade. Very long, minerally finish with throat-tingling accent similar to candied preserved angelica. Should remain at this plateau at least another 5 years. 93 points.

95 Dominique Laurent Nuits-St. Georges Argillières 1er Cru—Dark garnet. High toned aromatics, Cherry Herring liqueur, petrol, shoe polish, orange zest, slate, and some earthy, gamy aromas. High pitched attack, zingy acidity, red cherry, raspberry fruit. Tingly vibrancy in finish. Long with very fine lingering tannins. Rather linear mid-palate. Puckery. Oak is understated. Needs 3-5 years. 90+.

98 Galleron Trio Chardonnay (Napa)—Medium straw color. Slight nutty bouquet with dry grass, butterscotch, light toast (no char). Dry, minerally, viscous. Comice pear, quince, flint, river stones. Long bitter mid-palate, with nutmeg (or mace), coconut, powdered (not fresh) ginger spice. Very long with slight alcoholic grip in finish. Could use more depth of fruit. Can age another 4-6 years. 91.

96 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin—Upon opening the bottle, medium ruby. Initial red cherry, spiced apples, perfumy, and floral with barnyardy funk. Red cherry, raspberry. Tart, thin mid-palate. Some fine chalky tannins in finish. Sour cherry finish with puckery tannins. At this point, 86 points and I let it breath for 2 hours. The wine evolved into something more impressive… The wine broadens and the mid-palate gains flesh, now black fruit, dried meat, chewy tannins, tar, black licorice, blueberry, dutch cocoa. A 30+ second finish. Fruit is still primary, can age for 5–6 years. 89+. 

85 Pichon-Lalande—Funky, smoked meat aroma. Soft, lush, rich, yummy. Layered. Seems like a top vintage. Black currant, black cherry. Chewy, long finish. 92/100

96 Lynch-Bages—Even funkier, gamier, smoky aroma. Darker color. Sweet lush fruit (seemed more typical of Pichon-Lalande). Seems to have more merlot than most. Some chewy tannins. Fuller mid-palate. Lush red cherry fruit, cedar, prominent oak. Seemed like it could be a 97 vintage. 89 points.

95 Pichon-Baron—Plummy, black cherry, Dr. Pepper aromas. Chewy, tannic, brawny. Plum skin, black fruit, tar. Could it be a “Les Forts”? Chewy finish, but bit flar, thin in lid-palate. Probably a mid-90s vintage. 87.

98 Ch. LaTour l’Aspic (Cru Bourgois)—More classic cassis, vanilla, oak aromas. Lush, soft fruit, plumy, fine chewy tannins. Very accessible, tastes young. 89+ (Note: At $23, this is a particularly fine value in Bordeaux.)

99 Far Niente Chardonnay—Big nose of green apple, straw, fresh cut grass, light toasty oak. Flavors of crisp green apple, good acid. Modest oak flavor. Long crisp finish. 92. Drink through 2010-2012. (Note: I haven’t had a Far Niente wine in I don’t know how long. This chardonnay came across surprisingly well, no doubt because Far Niente avoids malolactic fermentation. It will age well.)

99 Dönhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett—Light, crisp correct. Good depth, length. Peach, nectarine, candied quince. Yummy. Excellent with corn fritters and sweet hot chile dipping sauce. 91.

99 Boxler Gewürztraminer (Alsace)—Big spicy nose of ginger, gooseberry, flowers, overripe pineapple. Very low acid detracts from enjoyment and food friendliness. Flat mid-palate, but good bitter edge in finish. No rating.

95 Hess Collection Cabernet—Bit closed initially. Black cherry aromas. Soft, supple, balanced, but bit drying tannins. Very good, but fruit is fading. 88. Drink now to 2003.

97 Heitz Napa Cab—Third time I’ve had this in the past few months, with consistent notes. Big fruit, nothing out of place. Clunky now, but should age well. 90+.

94 La Mission Haut-Brion—Decanted 1.5 hours. Bit restrained nose. Soft black fruit, bit over oaky at present. Drying tannins. Needs 5-8 years. Rather primary. Bit thin mid-palate. After another hour of so, nose opens to reveal pencilly, iodine aromas. 87+

98 Pierre Coursodon St. Joseph “d”Olivaie”—Gorgeous floral nose. Elegant, black fruit, barrique, delicate/feminine. Very fine drying tannins. Needs 2-3 years. 87

99 Domaine Les Aphillanthes Cuvee 3 Cepages Cotes-du-Rhone Villages—Richer suave plumy, vanilla oak, cherry bouquet. Supple, primary syrah flavor, soft with very fine tannin in finish. 88+. Drink til 2005.

98 Stolpman Reserve Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley)—Blackberry, briary, smoky oak nose. Soft, plumy, chocolate, drying tannin, lowish acid, black fruit flavor. Long finish. 90+. Drink 2002-06.

94 Santa Barbara Winery Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc—Strong botrytis nose. Apricot, sweet spices (nutmeg, mace), burnt orange. Almost Muscat-like. Acid a bit low. Drink over next 2-3 years. 91-.

95 Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Ménétrières”—Bouquet of straw, apple blossoms, crushed gravel. Sharp, mineral driven attack. Succulent, but lean, mid-palate with white fruit, ginger, calciferous and granite minerals. Long, focused finish with pear and bitter almond flavors. A terroirist’s wine. Lovely. Drink through 2008. 92

90 Shafer Hillside Select Cab—Classic cabernet aromas of black cherry, cassis. Plummy and cherry flavors, harmonious touch of oak, supple tannins. Good clean finish. Fruit still somewhat primary, but tannins are starting to resolve. Drink now through 2006. 91+

95 Sean Thackrey Orion—Dark bluish-garnet. Sweet floral, cedary, minty nose. Precise attack of red cherry, high acid, black plum. Medium coarse tannins throughout. Layers of flavors, oak woven without sticking out. Some charcoal, sweet black raspberry. Very fine wine, certainly one of CA’s best. Nearly as dense as Ojai Roll Ranch. Best from 2006. 96+.

95 Erwin Tinhof TBA (Austria, no varietal listed)—Deep gold color. Heavy botrytis, apricot bouquet. Moderately sweet. Apricot, peach, nutmeg, white chocolate, bitter almond, hazelnut flavors. Quite complex. Good length. Not as compelling as most Kracher cuvees, but very fine. More a finesse wine than a powerhouse. Drink through 2010. 92. (From the flavors, I’d guess this is a blend of varietals, including scheurebe and chardonnay. Anyone have information on this wine? The back label says Prädikatswein L-E 7302/97 Süss) 


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