  |
95 D. Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang—Virtually
unchanged from previous bottles tasted since pre-release. Lush, gold and
white fruit, some stony, gravelly minerals, somewhat lacking in cut, but
still lively. Soft attack, with layered fruity mid-palate. Surprisingly
primary still. Clean, refreshing finish. Very easy to drink. Despite the
apparent moderate acidity, the wine seems to need more age. My next to
last bottle. Wait 2-3 years to try again. About 91 points.
94 Williams-Selyem Allen Vineyard Pinot Noir—Perfumey, bright
cherry and balsam wood bouquet. Flavors do not live up to the aromatic
promise. Some red cherry, rose petal, and light tannic flavors. Drops in
mid-palate, almost hollow. Short, slightly tart finish. Seems properly
stored without obvious signs of deterioration or damage. Just not meant
to be. 86.
99 Jean Grivot Nuits-St-Georges “Les Charmois”—Stinky mercaptan
aromas with perhaps a touch of black cherry fruit. Tight. Fruit is fairly
lean, with some cherry and mulberry peaking through. A touch of tar, some
inky dark minerals, some chemically mercaptan character. Somewhat
tannic finish. Not much to recommend here. 79
00 Domaine Durban Beaumes-de-Venise Cuveé Prestige CdR Village
Rouge (Imported by Kermit Lynch)—A wine I’ve had trouble finding in
the US since picnicking at the Domaine in 95, and doubtlessly better than
the impressive vintage I drank there (either 93 or 94). Lovely bouquet
of briary berries and cherries, some aged beef, touch of game and barnyard.
Kind of a junior Chateauneuf. Luscious, liqueur-like sweet fruit, sweet
red beet and red cherry, rather syrah-like, but with some mourvedre character.
Don’t know the blend, but Grenache would also be typical here. Nicely textured
in the mouth, at once silky and chewy, with a tannic grip on the finish.
Pretty complex as Village wines go, could probably improve for 1-2 years.
Good value at $16. 90(+?)
97 Weinbach Pinot Gris Clos des Cappucins (Cuvee not noted)—Classic
Alsace PG from a very ripe vintage. Scintillating orange blossom, tangerine
and gold fruit aromatics. Maybe some honey. Lush, rich, overripe tropical
and golden stone fruit flavors. Exotic end of the PG spectrum, similar
to Z-H’s 97 VV, with some residual sugar. A lot going on throughout, with
long and succulent finish. Despite good acidity, could maybe use a bit
more to my taste. Still, quite excellent. 92.
86 Rieussec—Gorgeous Sauternes bouquet with perky botrytis. Crystal
pure attack. Excellent acid structure, fine sweetness, and lots of fruits
and minerals dancing in synch. Surprisingly unevolved, needs another 10
years. Super dessert wine. 94+.
97 Galleron Merlot Pepin Vineyard (Napa)—Lush fruit, suave French
oak, nicely integrated. Rich plumy fruit, some dry boysenberry, still substantial
but refined tannins. Long finish. Could use another 3-4 years, but impressive
now. Very classy wine. 92(+?)
00 Maldonado Winery Cab (Santa Ynez fruit)—A gift bottle from
a home wine maker. Medium ruby red color. Slightly oxidized with aromas
of medicinal cherry lollipop, raspberry, weird aldehydes, brown sugar,
cooked Italian milk chocolate, cough drop, and coffee beans. Acidic, raspberry
flavor, low tannin, no oak, tart cherry. No cabernet character whatever.
Orange juice, tobacco juice. Quit awful and unswallowable. 55
93 Geyser Peak Petite Verdot—Medium violet. Perfumey, tar, cigarette
smoke, blackberry and blueberry aromatics. India ink, blueberry flavor,
chalky, dusty mouthfeel. Suave, elegant, modest tannin, integrated oak.
Quite impressive for a blending grape. Better than the Murphy-Goode I had
a few years back. Drink over next couple years. 92
98 Schoffit Pinot Auxerrois Cuvee Caroline—Brilliant, perky gingerale,
nutmeg, mace, pear, hazelnut and pineapple bouquet. Sweet tropical fruit,
pineapple, some mineral, bitter almond, licorice. Viscous, very complex,
very long. Best Auxerrois I’ve had, better than my other favorite producer,
Mann. Will improve for 2-3 years and hold. 93+
99 Boxler Gewurz-- I opened it to go with Indian food and it
fit the bill. Not an overbearing example, the color is medium honeyed.
The bouquet is vibrant, with tropical fruit, overripe mango, sweet spices,
honey, golden flowers. A medium low acid GW with enough residual sugar
wo complement the spicy food. Really fruity (guava, mango, peach, ginger,
candied pear), succulent, not over-the-top. Good, clean finish. About 88
points, but a classic match to the food. Drink over the next 3 years. |
